5 tips to check the authenticity of a Chanel bag

Timeless and elegant, Chanel handbags are considered among the most iconic handbags in the world. From its iconic shapes, rich history, interlocking CCs and classic quilted pattern, Chanel is an obvious representation of luxury. However, being such an iconic and coveted brand, many counterfeits are flooding the market. It's now more important than ever to learn how to spot the small differences and determine whether the Chanel bag you're considering is genuine. Indeed, authenticating a Chanel bag is a real skill as there are many ways to determine whether it is real or not. What's more, with the increasing quality and attention to detail of the black market counterfeit handbag industry, authenticating used Chanel bags has also become an art and a science. So we're going to show you how to recognise the authenticity of a Chanel bag and what you should definitely look out for when buying one.

1. CC logo on lock

The most recognisable feature on a Chanel bag is the CC lock. So make sure you always look at the CC lock, designed by Karl Lagerfeld in the early 1980s. A replica lock will have minor errors such as the style and shape of the interlocking Cs, or the placement of extra metal on top. To do this, check that the Cs overlap correctly, are the same width and have flat edges. Confirm that the right "C" overlaps the left "C" at the top and that the left "C" overlaps the right "C" at the bottom. Next, make sure that the CC lock is centred both vertically and horizontally on its leather flap: if the placement looks wrong, it is wrong.

Another easy point to check is that the edges of the 'C's are flat on real Chanel bags - if you see rounded edges, it's a fake. If you see a stamp on the CC lock, it was made in France; if there's no stamp, the bag was made in Italy. Make sure the stamp is clear and flawless - fakes will rarely have legible stamps.

Note: each "C" is the same width on authentic Chanel bags and is also equal to the space between the "Cs".

On the left is a fake Chanel bag, on the right a real Chanel bag.

2. Quilting pattern

The quilting pattern is one of the most distinctive factors of a Chanel bag and can be an excellent indicator of its authenticity. The best place to check the quilting is on the back of the bag where the pocket is located. Make sure the stitching is consistent with the diamond pattern and aligns perfectly as genuine Chanel bags are impeccable in terms of shape, symmetry and alignment of the quilted diamonds.

In the photos below you can distinguish a real Chanel bag from a fake by examining the quilting. On the left is a fake bag where the quilting is obviously not aligned between the pocket and the bag. On the right is a genuine bag where you can see the transparent stitching pattern from the pocket to the bag.

Note: If you are buying a second-hand Chanel bag, it is possible that wear or stretching of the leather has led to a slight shift in the lines, so this is not always a valid indicator depending on the situation.

On the left is a fake Chanel bag, on the right a real Chanel bag.

3. Leather

When it comes to Chanel bags, the first material that springs to mind is the archetypal quilted lambskin, which has come to define luxury fashion in so many ways. This highly luxurious material remains the most coveted in the range, despite its reputation for being prone to scratches and dents. Although carefully treated, Chanel lambskin lasts for generations and retains its shape and lustre better than many other materials.

Another popular leather used by Chanel is caviar skin which is made from grained calf leather. This type of leather has a sparkling appearance and is more textured to the touch. It is less likely to scratch and mark and is a more durable leather than lambskin. When you run your hands over genuine caviar leather, you should feel raised dimples. Tactilely, fake Chanel bags are not as silky and soft as the real thing. What's more, fake bags are flat, sturdy and cheap.

On the left is a fake Chanel bag, on the right a real Chanel bag.

4. Serial number

Look inside the bag to see if it has a sticker with the serial number. The location of the serial number will vary depending on the style of handbag and the year, but unless the bag is very vintage, you should always find the serial number on the inside. It will either look like a sticker on the inside lining of the handbag, or it can be on a small leather label sewn inside the bag. Like everything else Chanel, the date code should look like the piece - if you see a cheaply assembled date code with writing that looks nothing like Chanel's identity, it's almost certainly a counterfeit.

Chanel serial numbers vary depending on the year the bag was made. If you are curious about the year of production of your Chanel piece, use the following table to help you find out.

Note: serial numbers from series 0 to series 9 included 7 digits, while serial numbers from series 10 to the present day include 8 digits.

5. Chain straps

The famous chain and leather straps are a feature of Chanel bags and also a great way to spot a fake Chanel bag. Newer Chanel bags have leather straps folded over themselves and sewn through each link, while vintage Chanel bags have a non-leather link threaded through. Check the chain and see that in authentic Chanel bags with leather chain straps, the part where the chain breaks should be well hidden. In fact, in the first models made before 2008, there is no stitching in the leather interwoven into the chain.

In the photos below, you can see that on the authentic Chanel bag (photo right), the seams are clean. There are no bent lines or dents. Whereas on the fake Chanel bag (pictured left), there are obvious bumps where the stitching is, and then it's twisted and uneven.

On the left is a fake Chanel bag, on the right a real Chanel bag.

Secure the purchase of your second-hand Chanel bag with Obvy

As you know, Chanel is one of the most luxurious brands in the world, so buying a Chanel bag is not cheap. However, there is an alternative to this that has many advantages... it's called second-hand! Buying your Chanel bag second-hand on classified ad sites such as Leboncoin, Vinted, ParuVendu etc is the ideal solution for getting one without having to pay full price for it. What's more, buying second-hand allows you to act in an eco-responsible way, since instead of throwing the bag away, it is recycled, making someone else and your wallet happy!

But that doesn't mean you shouldn't be vigilant, because there are plenty of fakes on classified ad sites, especially when it comes to luxury goods. To spot a fake Chanel bag, simply follow our guide above and check each of the points we've covered. And to make your purchase 100% safe, it's advisable to use a secure payment method to avoid any scams. Obvy is the ideal payment solution for transactions between private individuals on classified ad sites. In fact, if upon receipt of your parcel you discover that it is a Chanel counterfeit, all you have to do is report it and you will receive a full refund thanks to our escrow system. Happy shopping!